DIY clutch change

[Toilet Duck]

Afternoon all,

Santa Claus has come early and I have obtained the following:

[img width=576 height=768]http://s30.postimg.org/x2l9gqqmp/IMG_20141211_WA0043.jpg[/img]

[img width=576 height=768]http://s8.postimg.org/4w0zogjv9/IMG_20141211_114015.jpg[/img]

[img width=1024 height=768]http://s10.postimg.org/6yz3i3pa1/IMG_20141211_114911.jpg[/img]

[img width=1024 height=768]http://s28.postimg.org/4eqn8z0cd/IMG_20141211_114953.jpg[/img]

[img width=1024 height=768]http://s27.postimg.org/rd3oxui43/IMG_20141211_115003.jpg[/img]

[img width=1024 height=768]http://s13.postimg.org/4h4sbu29z/IMG_20141211_115048.jpg[/img]

Over the next few weeks/months when I have free time here and there, I am going to attempt a DIY clutch replacement on my Atom 3 300 whilst it's hibernating. If there is any interest, I am happy to take pictures etc which may help others attempting the same thing. Perhaps between us we could make an idiot guide? I have never replaced a clutch before, so I will be asking lots of questions over the coming weeks and hoping to pick the brains of fellow owners who have gone through this process

Having never seen a clutch "in the flesh" before, I was surprised how little friction material there is. I imagined it would look similar to a new brake pad, but there is much, much less material. If I didn't know it was brand new, in my ignorance I would have thought it was on its last legs!! So I have learnt something already

[img width=576 height=768]http://s1.postimg.org/f9i9t46bj/IMG_20141211_115514.jpg[/img]

Some initial questions for those of you who have done this already:

1. Do you need a "special" tool to remove the drive shafts from the gear box? Do they just pull out?
2. When attaching the load leveler to the engine, did you use chains or rope, and how/where did you attach it to on the engine? My load leveler came with right angle brackets on the end of the chains, are these supposed to bolt into some "convenient" point on the engine block?

Cheers 

[smokin]

Nice kit. Happy to share my experiences TD

1. Do you need a "special" tool to remove the drive shafts from the gear box? Do they just pull out?

I use an adjustable two-prong prybar but a couple of large flathead drivers do the job. There's some resistance but you can pull them out grasping the shaft close to the box. I prefer not to as it's easy to damage the seal

2. When attaching the load leveler to the engine, did you use chains or rope, and how/where did you attach it to on the engine? My load leveler came with right angle brackets on the end of the chains, are these supposed to bolt into some "convenient" point on the engine block?

Chains always. Don't think the brackets on your balance bar will be useful. There's a lifting loop on the left side (viewed from rear) and I connect both left chains to this using a hefty bolt. On the right I use the top two bolts of the engine mount. I remove one, slip the bolt thru a link and replace - then do the other.

[smokin]

Looking closer at your balance bar, the angle brackets might be useful if the engine mount bolts pass through the hole on the upright part

The bar I have has adjustable chains which allow you to cater for mount points at different heights. Not sure how this works with the one you have

[Toilet Duck]

[quote="smokin"]
Nice kit. Happy to share my experiences TD

1. Do you need a "special" tool to remove the drive shafts from the gear box? Do they just pull out?

I use an adjustable two-prong prybar but a couple of large flathead drivers do the job. There's some resistance but you can pull them out grasping the shaft close to the box. I prefer not to as it's easy to damage the seal

2. When attaching the load leveler to the engine, did you use chains or rope, and how/where did you attach it to on the engine? My load leveler came with right angle brackets on the end of the chains, are these supposed to bolt into some "convenient" point on the engine block?

Chains always. Don't think the brackets on your balance bar will be useful. There's a lifting loop on the left side (viewed from rear) and I connect both left chains to this using a hefty bolt. On the right I use the top two bolts of the engine mount. I remove one, slip the bolt thru a link and replace - then do the other.
[/quote]

Cheers smokin, I was hoping you'd pop by as I remember asking you questions about this same subject ages ago when you put up some pics of your clutch change.

I've got an assortment of pry bars, but none are adjustable. I might use that as an excuse to buy a couple of shiny new tools or just make do, will decide once I commence work

Makes sense re the load leveler chains, I'll connect mine up the same way when I eventually get to that stage.

Are any other specific/obscure tools required for this job that you can thing of? I've got a fairly decent tool collection, just wondering if something will crop up that is Atom or job specific that i might not have?

Do you know if there are any bolts that once undone during a clutch change have to be replaced, or are they all re-useable?

Cheers

[Toilet Duck]

[quote="smokin"]
Looking closer at your balance bar, the angle brackets might be useful if the engine mount bolts pass through the hole on the upright part
[/quote]

So I'd take the engine mount bolt out, and then put it back in through the hole on the vertical section of the right angle thing on the load leveler?

[smokin]

So I'd take the engine mount bolt out, and then put it back in through the hole on the vertical section of the right angle thing on the load leveler?

Yep. See attached for how I connect mine

The shafts don't need much convincing at all. Mine popped out so easily I looked at the tool I brought for the job and thought "that was a waste of money then"

No Honda or Atom specific tools required but the drive shaft nuts will need a large socket and a long breaker bar.

The upright top socket head bolts need a large AF allen key which I didn't have in my collection. You'll need to lockwire these at the end

The only hardware I can think of that shouldn't (ideally) be reused are the drive shaft nuts.

[Toilet Duck]

A picture is worth a thousand words, cheers, that makes sense now 

[quote="smokin"]
No Honda or Atom specific tools required but the drive shaft nuts will need a large socket and a long breaker bar.

The upright top socket head bolts need a large AF allen key which I didn't have in my collection. You'll need to lockwire these at the end

The only hardware I can think of that shouldn't (ideally) be reused are the drive shaft nuts.
[/quote]

Are the drive shaft nuts the one each side in the middle of the upright, horizontal? Think they might be castle nuts or at least have a tab bent over to prevent loosening? Visible when you take a rear wheel off.

Didn't know if the upright just pulled off the driveshaft, but obvious now they don't if there is a nut to remove. You don't happen to know what size they are, or even if they are metric/imperial? Have you got a list of torque settings? If not I can pester the factory when I'm at that stage 

I've got a set of AF hex sockets for rod end retaining bolts and plenty of lock wire.

Cheers again for your help, much appreciated 

[smokin]

Yep, centre of upright (see attached). On my AA2 the nuts are notched into the stub axle on the front but the rears are plain nuts.

The rear nuts need a 1 1/4" socket - not sure on the thread but I always source these from the factory.

General Torque settings are here http://www.atomclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,4111.0.html

Pressure Plate:  25 Nm  (tighten diagonally)
Intermediate Shaft bracket:  39 Nm
Slave Cylinder:  22 Nm
Bell Mount bolts:  M12 64 Nm , M10 44 Nm

(others by request ;-)

Cheers

[smokin]

Not tried it, but it may be possible to leave the nuts and shaft in the uprights and just undo the intermediate shaft bracket and swing the uprights outward. I was repainting and putting protective film on the shafts plus new CV boots so took the lot off

[Toilet Duck]

That's a massive help, much appreciated 

I've got a pdf type workshop manual, I will have a check and see what torque settings that has in it and hopefully they will match your values, thus proving I have the correct manual!

Cheers

[AtomMadStew]

If I was nearer and had the time Id have popped over to help - have it done within the day.
Get some of that pipe lagging to protect the frame from B&Q while your at it.
Happy dismantling
Stew

[Toilet Duck]

[quote="Atomstew"]
If I was nearer and had the time Id have popped over to help - have it done within the day.
Get some of that pipe lagging to protect the frame from B&Q while your at it.
Happy dismantling
Stew
[/quote]

Cheers Stew,  I'm  sure you'll still be able to help as I'm just warming up with the questions  You  must be a dab hand with the spanners to get it done within the day! Great idea with the pipe lagging,  I'll definitely be using that one.

[smokin]

Can be done solo but much easier with one manning the hoist and one guiding the lump. I purchased a few packs of microfibre cloths and cable tied to frame as I found lagging was too thick given limited wiggle room of AA2 300. Hope AA3 gives a little more room for manoeuvre

[TrackDayBore]

Hi Ed,

As you know I fitted a paddle clutch..
It might be worth having the flywheel face checked/skimmed, etc by a specialist near you... it shouldn't cost much, but  paddle clutches will "judder" if there is the slightest imperfections on the flywheel face, especially if there are "hot spots" (burn marks).

When the engine is out.. I know the perfectionist in you, you'll be polishing to a mirror finish the parts of the aluminium fuel tank that nobody will ever see 

Cheers,
Barry.

[Toilet Duck]

Hi Barry 

Yep, gone for the exact same clutch as you (I dropped you an email the other day).

Did you have your flywheel skimmed before fitting? What sort of "specialist" do I need to look for to get it done? Is there any place you could recommend? I didn't appreciate that the flywheel needs skimming!

I'm actually only taking the engine out to do a bit of polishing, but thought I might as well change the clutch whilst its out 

Cheers