Ohlins TTX and stiction

[PAJ]

I was wondering if the Ohlins TTX shocks avoid the stiction of some of the other shocks ?

When I was shown around the factory, the setting of the front shocks was demonstrated by pushing down on the car. I may be wrong but it seemed that there was a feeling that the car was resistant to move, ie stiction. I realise that forces are way different when the car's actually out on the road, but is the Ohlins set up noticeable different and better in smoothness of initial movement ? (I don't intend to install the needle roller bearing bell cranks, at least not initially. Tom has suggested that you don't really have to) and is there no Spring clatter/ rattle with the Ohlins ?

Cheers

[kelvin12382003]

When I ordered the car with ohlins shocks, needle roller bearing bell cranks is must have option. even though i have no idea what it is!!

[PAJ]

Hi Kelvin, I'm not sure, but I think those needle roller bell cranks are something the factory would more commonly suggest for your higher spec 3.5R, so it's probably usual for the 3.5R to include them (I think)

[Hedge]

[quote="kelvin12382003"] When I ordered the car with ohlins shocks, needle roller bearing bell cranks is must have option[/quote] I ordered Ohlins on mine - & not one mention was made of these. Mine work perfectly.

Cheers,
Hedge

[GraemeW]

Paj I asked Tom at the factory about the race needle bell crank, as the options list says these are required for the Ohlin TTX.  However he says the standard bell crank works well with the TTX option.  I think the sticktion is in the bell crank, and there will be slightly less in the race needle version.  So a lot more progressive damping.  I don't think many people tick that option.  Not sure it's worth the extra cash unless you're in the atom cup and need the extra control on the limit? The only car I've seen it in, is Reg's car that he's just picked up. Perhaps he has a view on this? 

[phil4]

Digger is right about stiction I think.

My way of thinking about it.

If your car nose is 10cm off the ground, and you push it down... does it return to 10cm above the ground?  If not, you've got stiction. 

As far as I'm aware it's not caused by the dampers (which should do nothing more than slow movement), nor the springs... but the bellcrank bearings, which bind.

I think earlier iterations of the atom suffered more than current, and so I'd expect far less need for them, and as Digger has found out for us, not required with the TTX dampers.

[PAJ]

I've only just realised that these particular Ohlins dampers are also used on various superbikes, and are credited with transforming the handling of (I think) a Fireblade or similar when doing track work. Interesting stuff, and exquisite looking little devices

[GraemeW]

Yes Paj they look great, and those that have them swear they make a big difference on the track.  If your car is mainly for road use I am not sure it's worth the extra expense?  Even for the looks?

When is your car due?

[PAJ]

They said 9 to 12 months, and I ordered at the start of August.

Maybe some wouldn't choose these, they're not cheap, but I really like the idea of them, and clearly it's still a crucial part of the car

[Hedge]

They make a big difference on the road & track, I think. Defo get them if you can afford it.

Come resale time they'll make a difference, too.

Cheers,
Hedge

[PAJ]

They certainly gave me plenty 'saving up time'

[phil4]

If you do, make sure you have a chat with Ben L,  as you can see initially slightly underwhelmed with them on road.

http://www.atomclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,15768.msg271785.html#msg271785

  I'm sure the right settings will help, but make sure you get them otherwise it may not have been money well spent.

[roger morton]

Not cheap but well worth it, great on the road and even better on the track.

[Hedge]

^^What he said.

Cheers,
Hedge