Immobiliser
Immobiliser
I've done a search and found a few posts and I understand this is a sensitive question.
My car as most of you know is a pure race car in China.
I was testing the gearbox this weekend and it's awesome. However another problem has materialised.
The car stalled whilst I was out on the track and wouldn't restart.
It turns over but there is no power to the ECU, fuel pump and a few other components. Testing to the fuse box shows there is power to the fuse just not much further. More research then led to the discovery of the immobiliser which I had assumed was not fitted to my car. The induction loop is zip tied behind the dash so it's really secure anyway.
Now I need to get rid of it. Could anyone PM me with any instructions?
Don't post them here for obvious reasons. I'm happy to call or email any background anyone might need.
I have a race this coming weekend and a car that won't start
All help gratefully received.
My car as most of you know is a pure race car in China.
I was testing the gearbox this weekend and it's awesome. However another problem has materialised.
The car stalled whilst I was out on the track and wouldn't restart.
It turns over but there is no power to the ECU, fuel pump and a few other components. Testing to the fuse box shows there is power to the fuse just not much further. More research then led to the discovery of the immobiliser which I had assumed was not fitted to my car. The induction loop is zip tied behind the dash so it's really secure anyway.
Now I need to get rid of it. Could anyone PM me with any instructions?
Don't post them here for obvious reasons. I'm happy to call or email any background anyone might need.
I have a race this coming weekend and a car that won't start
All help gratefully received.
- John Scherrer
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Re: Immobiliser
$64 Dollar question springs to mind ..
If it has an immobiliser, how have you been starting it so far?
You're suggesting yo don't have key fob?
... or have I missed something here?
If it has an immobiliser, how have you been starting it so far?
You're suggesting yo don't have key fob?
... or have I missed something here?
Atom 3 310 Supercharged (2011), Now Sold
Re: Immobiliser
The key fob was zip tied to the cabling behind the dash.
So it did work just kind of defeated the point of existing.
So it did work just kind of defeated the point of existing.
Re: Immobiliser
What happened to mine was the antenna which is made of very thin copper cables broke due to the pressure of the zip tie and some movement in the cable.
To test it, you need a multimeter to make sure the antenna is still carrying current... If not, you need to order a whole new kit, replace the antenna and throw away the rest...
To test it, you need a multimeter to make sure the antenna is still carrying current... If not, you need to order a whole new kit, replace the antenna and throw away the rest...
Re: Immobiliser
After a fair amount of diagnostic work and tracing all the wiring by hand and testing just about every component, we managed to prove the immobiliser did indeed work. So then we tracked it down to the ignition relay, what we thought were spare fuses turned out to not be spare at all. Changing the ignition relay fuse did the trick. Thanks to all for the help.
My car is now running and it seems we will be racing this weekend
My car is now running and it seems we will be racing this weekend
Re: Immobiliser
[quote="fieldl"]
I've done a search and found a few posts and I understand this is a sensitive question.
The car stalled whilst I was out on the track and wouldn't restart.
It turns over but there is no power to the ECU, fuel pump and a few other components. Testing to the fuse box shows there is power to the fuse just not much further. More research then led to the discovery of the immobiliser which I had assumed was not fitted to my car. The induction loop is zip tied behind the dash so it's really secure anyway.
Now I need to get rid of it. Could anyone PM me with any instructions?[/quote]
Glad you got it sorted out. Some suggestions here for anyone else coming across this thread with a similar problem:
1) If the starter button cranks the car, it is very unlikely you have an immobili[sz]er problem.
2) The factory(s) can make up a "cheater plug" to run the car without the immobilizer. I would think they'd rather send a physical piece of hardware to someone they know is an Atom owner. Now, I don't know if any of the current factories would provide one or not. It would seem to me to be a better choice than having info on bypass procedures get out in an uncontrolled manner.
3) I know how, but I'm not telling.
4) For anyone with a Brammo Atom, this problem is almost always the powertrain fuse / relay or the small wires on the emergency disconnect switch (if fitted) being loose. No idea about Hondas.
I've done a search and found a few posts and I understand this is a sensitive question.
The car stalled whilst I was out on the track and wouldn't restart.
It turns over but there is no power to the ECU, fuel pump and a few other components. Testing to the fuse box shows there is power to the fuse just not much further. More research then led to the discovery of the immobiliser which I had assumed was not fitted to my car. The induction loop is zip tied behind the dash so it's really secure anyway.
Now I need to get rid of it. Could anyone PM me with any instructions?[/quote]
Glad you got it sorted out. Some suggestions here for anyone else coming across this thread with a similar problem:
1) If the starter button cranks the car, it is very unlikely you have an immobili[sz]er problem.
2) The factory(s) can make up a "cheater plug" to run the car without the immobilizer. I would think they'd rather send a physical piece of hardware to someone they know is an Atom owner. Now, I don't know if any of the current factories would provide one or not. It would seem to me to be a better choice than having info on bypass procedures get out in an uncontrolled manner.
3) I know how, but I'm not telling.
4) For anyone with a Brammo Atom, this problem is almost always the powertrain fuse / relay or the small wires on the emergency disconnect switch (if fitted) being loose. No idea about Hondas.
Re: Immobiliser
Terry'd advice is good and accurate for Honda engined cars too.
It's the fuse, relay or wiring to it.
It's the fuse, relay or wiring to it.
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