Request input on order options.

[Flying Phil]

I'm getting down to final days before ordering, and hoped you folks would offer suggestions about my option choices. I'll use the car about 75% road, 25% track.
1.) Honda 300... I've read most of the threads, and will be opting for the Honda motor.
2.) Ceramic header/exhaust.
3.) Race Brake package.
4.) Koni 3012 upgrade.
5.) Quick release steering wheel.
6.) standard mirrors.
7.) yellow panels... personal choice.
8.) extended fenders.
9.) black chassis... personal choice
10.) Silver 12 spoke wheels.
11.) ES 100 tires.
12.) Remote brake bias adjuster.
13.) twin bubble windscreen.
14.) 2" - 4 point belts + pads.
15.) lighting kit.
16.) 12V power source.
17.) passenger footrest + driver dead pedal.
18.) indoor car cover.
Any input appreciated...

[bolus]

Looks good.  I'd recommend another set of wheels with some A048's for the track days.  Keep the ES100s for cruising around town and then throw on the track wheels and tires when you head to the track.  You'll be happy with anything you order though

[Bottoz]

Ditto what Bolus said. I've done that same thing (but with different R-comp tires). One thing you want to avoid is the standard mirrors. I had the standard one's and have since upgraded. You could save the money and just get the Track Brake package. Same size rotors. ... and I'll hold my tongue until we get the TraqMate data posted from AtomFest. The Alcon (race) caliper is a 4x34.9mm, the Wilwood (track) is 4x35.1mm. Not a huge difference... but it was one of the reasons I didn't pay the extra $xxxx for the Race Brake downgrade upgrade.

[silver]

Flying Phil......for the love of god, don't get the standard mirrors, unless you plan on replacing them with something not offered at the factory, and in that case, get them.

You really really won't like the stock mirrors.  There are some available through Bruce Fielding, President of the AAOC, or you can get the SPA's from the factory.\

Also, I'm going to ditto Bottoz on the brakes...the track versions are awesome I wasn't having any problems on the track braking just as well as anyone else.....I couldn't drive as well as some though .

You will probably be annoyed with the way the Alcons will probably squeak on the road, the Wilwoods don't squeak ever.

[bolus]

My Alcons dont sqeak until they get really hot, like the end of a 20 minute track session.  Then they squeal like a 400 lbs pig.  But boy are the happy when they are that hot

[Wmcmanus]

I'd sugest adding the battery master switch as a security measure if nothing else.  It's kind of a cool looking gadgety thing to boot.  But basically, you just twist off the red switch, put it in your pocket, and walk away from the car.  It kills everything except the computer's memory. 

I'm not so sure that I'd order the quick release steering wheel option again.  I think the battery master switch does pretty much the same job in terms of security and there is always the risk that you may do something when driving to accidentally release the steering wheel (it just takes an accidental flip of the wrist on the release mechanism).  Your hands shouldn't be there but it's a small steering wheel and who knows what might happen on a long trip when you're tired.  While I don't view this as a huge risk, it's probably not one worth taking.  I can get in and out of the Atom with the steering wheel on, and I'm a pretty good size guy so it's not as though you need to take the wheel off for any real purpose.

Standard mirrors are not a good thing.  Ariel has now switched over to the Motrax mirrors (for Atom 3 production cars) that several people on these boards have used as a substitute for the factory mirrors.  It will be interesting to see if Brammo follows suit.  If so, no worries, those will do the trick.  If not, you might consider them or Brammo's other mirror options.  I've got their SPA carbon fiber mirrors which work great (and look great) but were not cheap.

[Bruce Fielding]

If you order now, you should get an Atom 3 - make sure... If so, then the following applies

1.) Honda 300 - I don't think you'll have a choice.
2.) Ceramic header/exhaust - shouldn't need it with the Honda.
3.) Race Brake package - not necessary for mostly road work. If you do get it, change the pads to ones that work from cold.
4.) Koni 3012 upgrade - this may not be an option.
5.) Quick release steering wheel - I'd go for it for security and pose value.
6.) standard mirrors - yup. Yours will come with Motrax ones.
7.) yellow panels... personal choice.
8.) extended fenders - why not...
9.) black chassis... personal choice
10.) Silver 12 spoke wheels.
11.) ES 100 tires - you may find other road tyres better.
12.) Remote brake bias adjuster - not necessary for raod use, but nice dash bling.
13.) twin bubble windscreen - wimp! The new deflectors are cooler and better
14.) 2" - 4 point belts + pads - 3" are better and easier to live with day to day.
15.) lighting kit.
16.) 12V power source.
17.) passenger footrest + driver dead pedal - yeucch They just get in the way.
18.) indoor car cover.

[silver]

I'm going to disagree with Bruce's comment about the belts.

The 3 " belts require you to fumble around and pull the lap belt out from between the seat and the chassis (at least mine falls in that crack every time) then pull the other lap belt out, then click them together, sinch them up, make sure the buckle is properly placed below your gut and centered. then grab the shoulder straps one by one and loosen them (if you forgot to loosen them before unbuckling) then buckle each one individually then tighten them back down.

If you have the 2" belts....get in, click once, tighten if necessary, done.  (seems that way is easier for everyday use)

Also on the dead pedal and passenger foot rest.......I am glad I have the dead pedal and I use it all the time.  The passenger foot rest will be in the way for anyone over 5"8" or so....just like Bruce, what are you Bruce 6'3" or so?

[Bruce Fielding]

I've had both, so I'm not speculating here...

If you forget to loosen the 2" ones you have to wriggle and loosen them to put them on and dislocate your shoulders which is worse than the 3" ones.

If you have the 3" ones set up right (i.e. not too tight) and you make sure that you always drape them properly for easy access when you get out of the car, then they're easier on the street. It's only if you're changing cars or doing trackdays that they're more difficult - but then they're safer, and easier on the shoulders.

The dead pedal I think is just personal choice, but I will concede that it's possibly more useful on cars with the pedals on the wrong side.

[Dave Fellows]

[quote="silver"]
You will probably be annoyed with the way the Alcons will probably squeak on the road, the Wilwoods don't squeak ever.
[/quote]

Couldn't you fix this by using different pads?

[Bottoz]

[quote="Dave Fellows"]
[quote="silver"]
You will probably be annoyed with the way the Alcons will probably squeak on the road, the Wilwoods don't squeak ever.
[/quote]

Couldn't you fix this by using different pads?
[/quote]

Yes, you very well could.

[silver]

yeah but why would you pay extra for smaller ***edit*** calipers, then take out the pads and put in "street" pads.....why not just save the money of the "upgrade" and go with Willwoods where you don't have to change anything from DAY 1

[Bottoz]

The rotor size on the Alcons and the Wilwoods are the same. But, the piston diameter inside the calipers is larger on the Wilwoods than the Alcons. The Alcons have a more 'Race' type pad. Typically these pads wear the rotor more, squeak a bit and stop better when warm. The pads on the Wilwoods still require a bit of warmth to bite, but don't squeak at all. So, there are +'s and -'s to each.

[Dave Fellows]

[quote="silver"]
yeah but why would you pay extra for smaller ***edit*** calipers, then take out the pads and put in "street" pads.....why not just save the money of the "upgrade" and go with Willwoods where you don't have to change anything from DAY 1
[/quote]

Who said anything about replacing them with street pads? I'd replace them with the best pads I could buy for the type of driving I'd be doing... If I was doing 75% road use (as Flying Phil indicated) then I'd probably go for something that operates fairly well at a cooler temp but still grips well in hotter temperatures.

Me personally, I don't care about a bit of squeak if the pads are more suitable to the driving I'll be doing (mostly track).

[silver]

[quote="Dave Fellows"]
[quote="silver"]
yeah but why would you pay extra for smaller ***edit*** calipers, then take out the pads and put in "street" pads.....why not just save the money of the "upgrade" and go with Willwoods where you don't have to change anything from DAY 1
[/quote]

Who said anything about replacing them with street pads? I'd replace them with the best pads I could buy for the type of driving I'd be doing... If I was doing 75% road use (as Flying Phil indicated) then I'd probably go for something that operates fairly well at a cooler temp but still grips well in hotter temperatures.

Me personally, I don't care about a bit of squeak if the pads are more suitable to the driving I'll be doing (mostly track).
[/quote]

Dave.....to me pads that work well at cooler temps ARE STREET PADS otherwise they'd work at track temps.  and based on my definition, you Bruce and myself recommended the same thing....I think we're using diff words to describe the exact same thing