NewMad
NewMad
Hi All I recently took delivery of a tidy 2016 Nomad300 - really pleased with it, a bit of dream come true for me - but a few questions fellow Nomad'ers may be able to help me with:
- does anyone have a PDF of the owners manual as I didn't get one with my car?
- specifically I'm looking for tips on things like safe jacking points, fuel, oil & fluid grades, tyre pressures etc, plus how the multi-function display all works (I guess this might be on an Atom or Ace forum somewhere too as they all look the same).
- does anyone know the model of WARN winch used, so I can add one to my front nudge bar?
- what indoor/outdoor covers are out there?
- does anyone make the sun top in the UK seen on some of the US Nomads?
- recommended Ohlins setup, tips and tricks to get the most of them on road for now.
Matt S
(Kent based Nomad (for now) until I move it to my place in Wales Spring/Summer 2020)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VxHNTXLSYHGoY2RT7
- does anyone have a PDF of the owners manual as I didn't get one with my car?
- specifically I'm looking for tips on things like safe jacking points, fuel, oil & fluid grades, tyre pressures etc, plus how the multi-function display all works (I guess this might be on an Atom or Ace forum somewhere too as they all look the same).
- does anyone know the model of WARN winch used, so I can add one to my front nudge bar?
- what indoor/outdoor covers are out there?
- does anyone make the sun top in the UK seen on some of the US Nomads?
- recommended Ohlins setup, tips and tricks to get the most of them on road for now.
Matt S
(Kent based Nomad (for now) until I move it to my place in Wales Spring/Summer 2020)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VxHNTXLSYHGoY2RT7
Re: NewMad
Hi Matt!
- Owners manual - your best bet would be to ring the factory, and ask, they'll definitely be able to help you out.
- Fuel is super unleaded, and everything you've listed there is in the manual.
- I've never really done much with the display apart from change it to KM/KPH, and reset the trip count.
- I believe it's a WARN ProVantage 2500, though I'm not sure which add ons Ariel buy to provide the remote and dash controls.
- There's a dual purpose indoor/outdoor cover that Ariel can provide.
- There seem to be a few providers, have a read around here for examples.
- There's some instructions and setup numbers in the manual. What I will say is without cutting the car up, I needed to jack the rear up to make changes to the rear units.
- Owners manual - your best bet would be to ring the factory, and ask, they'll definitely be able to help you out.
- Fuel is super unleaded, and everything you've listed there is in the manual.
- I've never really done much with the display apart from change it to KM/KPH, and reset the trip count.
- I believe it's a WARN ProVantage 2500, though I'm not sure which add ons Ariel buy to provide the remote and dash controls.
- There's a dual purpose indoor/outdoor cover that Ariel can provide.
- There seem to be a few providers, have a read around here for examples.
- There's some instructions and setup numbers in the manual. What I will say is without cutting the car up, I needed to jack the rear up to make changes to the rear units.
Re: NewMad
Brilliant Phil - thanks very much for taking the time with your answers for a 'newbie' like me.
I have plenty to go on now, and I have found out factory has owners manuals on backorder so there are some coming out again soon hopefully.
The other bits I will look into.
It makes sense running on 97 Octane, I was wondering if there were any ill-effects if you get stuck on tour somewhere and can only put 95 in. I recall stories from a friend of mine who used to have to run his mk.1 Imprezza back to main dealer to have the ECU reset if he had to put 95 in it, to get it back to where it was. I've not had a Honda VTec in a car before, so am still learning about the nature of these blocks. Although it was comforting how much this 2.4 motor sounds just like my old 1.8K-series in the Caterham on start-up. Its a familiar crisp sounding start up... not surprising I suppose given Honda helped Rover so much with their 'K' (before the Brit brand upset their Japanese partners by selling out to BMW), and the rest as they say, is history.
Have a good day and thanks again
M
I have plenty to go on now, and I have found out factory has owners manuals on backorder so there are some coming out again soon hopefully.
The other bits I will look into.
It makes sense running on 97 Octane, I was wondering if there were any ill-effects if you get stuck on tour somewhere and can only put 95 in. I recall stories from a friend of mine who used to have to run his mk.1 Imprezza back to main dealer to have the ECU reset if he had to put 95 in it, to get it back to where it was. I've not had a Honda VTec in a car before, so am still learning about the nature of these blocks. Although it was comforting how much this 2.4 motor sounds just like my old 1.8K-series in the Caterham on start-up. Its a familiar crisp sounding start up... not surprising I suppose given Honda helped Rover so much with their 'K' (before the Brit brand upset their Japanese partners by selling out to BMW), and the rest as they say, is history.
Have a good day and thanks again
M
Re: NewMad
I didn't get the Tom handover with my Nomad, but I do recall him saying of the Atom, "You can put 95 in, but why would you?" As such I suspect it'll run ok on 95 (just less urgency), but I'd save that for rare occasions.
Re: NewMad
I agree - Shell or BP 97 when and wherever possible for me.
Its just my Nomad will live in Wales and on some excursions I could struggle to find a decent fuel stop that sells anything except 95 & DERV, but I will do my research and fill up with 97 whenever possible. If 95 goes in, it will only be a small quantity to get me to next nearest supplier of 97, after which 'spirited' driving can resume.
That said, I am even skeptical of 97 octane in places where they don't sell much of it, and its been sitting in an old rusty tank for an extended period (after clogging up a set of injectors on a bike of mine with gunk soon after filling up in a back street garage in the middle of nowhere on tour once).
There is a lot be said for popular petrol stations that have a rapid turnover of all grades of fuel. I also tend to 'drive-on' when I see a tanker on the forecourt - as recent supply drops tend to stir-up all the rubbish at the bottom of the tanks, and it takes a good half hour to settle to the bottom again.
Thanks
Its just my Nomad will live in Wales and on some excursions I could struggle to find a decent fuel stop that sells anything except 95 & DERV, but I will do my research and fill up with 97 whenever possible. If 95 goes in, it will only be a small quantity to get me to next nearest supplier of 97, after which 'spirited' driving can resume.
That said, I am even skeptical of 97 octane in places where they don't sell much of it, and its been sitting in an old rusty tank for an extended period (after clogging up a set of injectors on a bike of mine with gunk soon after filling up in a back street garage in the middle of nowhere on tour once).
There is a lot be said for popular petrol stations that have a rapid turnover of all grades of fuel. I also tend to 'drive-on' when I see a tanker on the forecourt - as recent supply drops tend to stir-up all the rubbish at the bottom of the tanks, and it takes a good half hour to settle to the bottom again.
Thanks
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Re: NewMad
Quote :
"......the ECU It actually adjusts the timing under load using signals from the anti-knock sensors. These are located in the block or intake manifold. These sensors work by acoustically sensing cylinder knocking (pre-ignition) due to insufficient octane in the fuel. When they sense knocking the signal to the ECU triggers it to retard the engine timing. This protects the pistons at the expense of horsepower and fuel economy. For maximum power, using the recommended octane is required............"
So the answer is that it is OK to use lower octane fuel - but you may lose some power but there should be no effect on the engine!!
"......the ECU It actually adjusts the timing under load using signals from the anti-knock sensors. These are located in the block or intake manifold. These sensors work by acoustically sensing cylinder knocking (pre-ignition) due to insufficient octane in the fuel. When they sense knocking the signal to the ECU triggers it to retard the engine timing. This protects the pistons at the expense of horsepower and fuel economy. For maximum power, using the recommended octane is required............"
So the answer is that it is OK to use lower octane fuel - but you may lose some power but there should be no effect on the engine!!
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Re: NewMad
Very interesting info. there - fascinating in fact. Many thanks, and on fuel economy alone it makes sense to use the correct octane at all times (or whenever possible).
Re: NewMad
Matt, was just thinking... Will you be Wales based by May?
This could be in your neck of the woods. Got a couple of Nomads going...
https://www.ariel.club/forum/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=17730
Would be good to see the beast in the flesh!
Re: NewMad
Thanks Karl - I will consult the diary - I hope to be in Wales by then (although sorting the logistics of Crekerne having the car for a week in April/May for service and addition of winch, raised air intake and perspex sided as well as 2nd factory service thanks. I am based in the Brecon Beacons and the drive is around Snowdonia - but its a great drive up the A470 between me and there, so yes and thanks I will keep an eye on that thread and hope to join in I also have a trackday on Anglesey with SCD (Supercar Driver Club) late summer, and SCD do the Brecon Beacons drive in October too - these will be good (I got a membership when I bought the car from an independent sports car shop)
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