Ohlins Setup

[phil4]

I'm not professing to know what I'm doing here, but after a day of faffing with the suspension, I thought I'd share what I learned in case someone else finds it useful. Keep in mind, I could be -very- wrong.

Page 37 of the manual contains settings for road, off road (with and without jumps). It says number of clicks from full hard/clockwise.

For low speed and high speed compression this is easy. looking at the nut (or allen key receptacle), turn it fully clockwise until you can't (don't turn it too hard), and then slowly turn back anti-clockwise counting the clicks until you get to the number in the manual (you're making it softer with each click).

With the black dial, it's a bit more fun. I've assumed the rear's are the right way up, and true clockwise is clockwise looking down on the rear dial (doesn't matter which side from), so turn that as far as it'll go... it stops clicking and free turns at the end... then turn more slowly anti-clockwise again counting the clicks.

Rear

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The fronts are upside down, so this time as you look down on it', turn it first anti-clockwise until it free turns, and then turn it clockwise counting the clicks. This picture shows which way to turn to achieve Clockwise as the manual asks.

Front

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The final thing that I needed to learn was how to get at the compression parts. On the front they're easy, they're under the big rubber cap. At the rear they're the same but covered by the rear arch bodywork. There's a hole cut in it so you can see through, but it doesn't appear to be centered so you can adjust. I was using a 12mm deep socket (about 5cm deep), as there was no obvious way to get a spanner in, but though this should work, the hole wasn't lined up and the socket wouldn't go it.

The secret I found was to jack the rear up, so the wheel you're working on is just touching/just off the ground. With the sump guard on I was jacking from the forward wishbone mount point Now the hole lines up enough that both the allen key and socket can be inserted and turn.

What else have I found? The factory setup for the road on the road was about bob on, I've since tried a few things, but it's now on the softest of the road settings (ie. rears are at 25 clicks). That the harder offroad setting makes it very wollowy, so much so I think I'd get sea sick It didn't seem to filter out big bumps at high speed though, but did a good job on slower bumps. It felt less cohesive at speed on the road.

[Karl V]

Dropping tyre pressure by about 5 PSI is another approach a few Nomad owners have taken to add a bit more 'give' to the set-up.

Plus it's a bit easier to experiment with than car jacks and Allen keys

[stupot]

Thanks Phil. Well done on the new Nomad purchase and look forward to hearing more about your Ohlins experience.

It does appear as though the misaligned hole is due to the factory aligning this when car is in build on stands and not taking into account the suspension movement. It shouldn't be too difficult to modify it.

[Trigger]

One of the guys on our Surrey Hills jaunt back in April had a similar issue and had made a hole to adjust it - the Ohlins are clearly the best option but they do look a bit of a faff !!

[phil4]

One of the guys on our Surrey Hills jaunt back in April had a similar issue and had made a hole to adjust it - the Ohlins are clearly the best option but they do look a bit of a faff !!

I think I'll get my dremmel out and see if I can't move the hole up a bit. They're wicked when they're working, and now I know how to adjust, but starting from scratch was a bit hard, hence the above.

[fesuvious]

Hi Phil
This is great but may I ask,

Does the Allen key adjuster and also the black adjuster both have to be adjusted the same? So if one comes to 'x' clicks then so does the other? Or is the black adjuster low speed? Your post I don't think clarifies it (or I'm being dumb).

I've tried to find the right Ohlins manual but haven't found it yet. I'm just trying to clarify exactly what is what in terms of adjusters.

I'm guessing you've got it thoroughly sussed

Have you fiddled with / changed spring pre-load at all?

[phil4]

The small Allen key adjuster is for low speed compression. The larger nut adjusts high speed compression and the black ring at the other end (and pictured above), adjusts rebound.

You can have a lot of fun and some strange effects setting them on extremes.

No not changed (nor do I know how) pre load or spring rates, only the above.


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[phil4]

I learned something new and helpful today.

The rear compression settings are largely inaccessible normally, unless the car is jacked up. The cunning people at Ariel have used retained nuts on the two bolts either side of the suspension point, so you can easily undo these.

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Shown on this picture, the four bolts are ringed in red and blue. The yellow ring is where the compression adjuster is (under it's black protective cap). Simply undo the two blue bolts, leaving the red (or loosening them slightly). With that done, there's enough "flex" that the whole panel can be moved out of the way, and the compression adjusters are now easily accessible.

So no more jacking, just two bolts to undo, and no nuts to worry about.

[Maxnomad]

Thanks for this great information. Where can I find a digital copy of the owners manual so I can play with these different settings?

Thanks

Max