USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
Might anyone know where I can find replacement ball joints for my 2006 USA Brammo Atom? These are at the outboard end of the front lower control arms, and are the attachment point for the bottom of the upright.
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Re: USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
If you have an intact one, take it to your local parts store, and let them try to match it up. I looked around but was unable to find info on the origins of them.
Re: USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
Thanks Frank. Good advice. If I can identify the original applications, then I can look for rebuildable upgrades. My recently purchased 06 has only 2400 miles...and one ball joint that is way too tight and affecting the steering. I've tried spinning it with a drill to loosen it up, but it just gets hot and doesn't seem to loosen. Do you have any suggestions?
John
John
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Re: USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
Is this thread that discusses Brammo US Spec Rod End Replacement any help ?
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=5799&hilit=Brammo+ball+joint
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=5799&hilit=Brammo+ball+joint
Atom 3 310 Supercharged (2011), Now Sold
Re: USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
Thank you, John. Unfortunately, many people refer to "rod-ends" as "ball joints". That post deals with the actual rod ends in the suspension, but not the ball joints that are the bottom connection of the front uprights to the control arms.
Re: USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
Update: I have bought from TMI what appears to be a replacement ball joint. They were very helpful with photos and dimensions, and I'll compare when it arrives here on Maui. TMI said it had a NAPA part number, so I ordered that part from NAPA, but it is not the same ball joint.
Meanwhile, I found at Howe Racing a ball joint that looks like a match (see photo). It is rebuildable and "lash adjustable" so you can set it however tight or loose you want. That's good news: I'm replacing mine because it was so tight it was binding up the steering, which couldn't self-center at all. If they're a match, I'll install two of those, and keep the TMI one as a spare.
I'll provide another update when this adventure is over.
Meanwhile, I found at Howe Racing a ball joint that looks like a match (see photo). It is rebuildable and "lash adjustable" so you can set it however tight or loose you want. That's good news: I'm replacing mine because it was so tight it was binding up the steering, which couldn't self-center at all. If they're a match, I'll install two of those, and keep the TMI one as a spare.
I'll provide another update when this adventure is over.
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Re: USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
Update. The Howe Racing ball joints fit and the stud/ball move freely, without play, as delivered. I installed one and test drove. Steering is binding less and there’s some self-centering now. Hopefully more when I replace the other one. I may still have to track down other points that are binding.
Does anyone else have steering that doesn’t self-center? There’s not much steering feel, or loading and unloading. I know that can mean not enough caster, but there’s no caster adjustment on the Brammo Atom and it feels more like binding or over-tightness.
Does anyone else have steering that doesn’t self-center? There’s not much steering feel, or loading and unloading. I know that can mean not enough caster, but there’s no caster adjustment on the Brammo Atom and it feels more like binding or over-tightness.
Re: USA Atom 2 Replacement Ball Joints
I installed the second Howe Racing ball joint, and finally have freed up the steering enough to have some self-centering. Parking is a little easier too.
I have to say though, the ball joint mounting loop at the end of the control arm makes it difficult to press in or out the ball joint. It is only supported on one side, which tends to skew the joint as it is pressed in. And there's weld material that prevents the spacer from making contact with the supported part of the loop. Also, its hard to find spacers that fit outside of the joint and inside the mounting loop. I ended up using a piece of exhaust tubing to press-in the ball joint, but removing it had to be done with only the control arm side of the loop supported in the press. Not a good design. And don't even get me started on how hard it is to get the ball joint stud into the upright. You really have to spread the split opening and even then, it's no fun.
I have to say though, the ball joint mounting loop at the end of the control arm makes it difficult to press in or out the ball joint. It is only supported on one side, which tends to skew the joint as it is pressed in. And there's weld material that prevents the spacer from making contact with the supported part of the loop. Also, its hard to find spacers that fit outside of the joint and inside the mounting loop. I ended up using a piece of exhaust tubing to press-in the ball joint, but removing it had to be done with only the control arm side of the loop supported in the press. Not a good design. And don't even get me started on how hard it is to get the ball joint stud into the upright. You really have to spread the split opening and even then, it's no fun.
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