Much more anti climaxes? All the “good stuff” locked behind the members area?
Pretty pitty if you are in the market for a 4 and cant get the complete info.
Great to hear, I have the bigger master cylinder sitting here. But agreed with Steve I'd let them do a fluid change and their bleed to see where it sits, as he was pretty confident
Couldn’t agree more, I’m a bit confused why it’s not published. Hopefully it will be shared if directly asked. It could be there is a knack or trick. i.e certain 2 pot AP callipers needed to be removed, rotated and tapped with a mallet to release bubbles that get trappedPeter255 wrote: ↑Sun May 08, 2022 7:04 pm So the question still stands. We all need to know how to do the "special" bleeding process for our cars. Its not practical to only ever bleed the brakes at the factory.
Other than postive pressure from the reservoir or negative from the caliper end how else can you bleed the brakes?
Not sure why it appears to be a secret. Surely its important safety info for owners?
The first part of what you describe above is pad knockback, which can occur if your rotors aren't true or where they might be flex between the rotor and caliper eg when cornering very hard of going over kerbs on race circuits or running over pot holes etc. That said, in extreme circumstances, is can also happen if there is a mis-match between master cylinder sizing and caliper piston sizing.Monza wrote: ↑Sat May 07, 2022 4:49 pm I don't know if i'm supposed to write here about the new bleeding process, but i'll do
It appears that the main reason for long pedal travel with near no effect on braking is because the pistons in the calipers are going backward during driving between each braking, so the first travel of the brake pedal will only push back the pistons/pads closer to the discs and, only after, it'll begin to really brake.
The new bleeding process is here to correct the problem, with putting "more " fluid between the pedal in rest position and the pistons so that the pistons can't go back so much when pedal is up/rest. The consequence is that, after this special bleeding, the pressure on the discs is quick, there is no longer dead travel only to push the pistons/pads back in contact with discs.
Every one can make this test : after some driving press the pedal a first time, release it and push it again immediately : the pedal on the second pressure will be firm and braking near immediat (pistons didn't have time to go backwards).
Hope this helps
Users browsing this forum: piemmm and 1 guest