Skunkwurx Dash2 Pro Conversion AA2

[Oli1122]

Hello everyone,

I purchased a second hand but new dash2 pro display with all the knobs, switches and the surrounding. I also did get a bit of Race Technology paper work and the loom.

Yesterday i began to plug in the new dash. Dash lights up, horn, alarm, ignition, on/off, light switch and the fog lights are working.

But i didn't get to manage the indicators and hazard lights to work.
Fuses are checked but whats confusing me is the wiring esp. for the hazard lights.
There are more cables on the standard black connector (x8) than on the new dash (x3) - red marking
I did measure the OEM connector. 2 cables are 12V and 1 is around 5V.

On the indicator toggle there are 3 pins and OEM there are also 3 pins on the dash. No variation (yes i did start with the original cable color sequence) is working the indicators on the car. I suspect that the indicator toggle and the hazard switch are somehow connected to each other (power/ earth?!).

I have also one spare cable with a cable lug on each side. Spare or does it belong somewhere?

So... has anyone done this conversion and can recall it?
Or maybe someone has a documentation (PDF, Pictures, ...) how this has to be done.

New Dash Back

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AA2 OEM Connector hazard

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AA2 OEM indicator pins

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Hi,

The wiring for the indicators and hazards are linked, I had an issue with mine a year ago with similar results…

Easiest way to troubleshoot… use your old hazard button (connect it) and make sure the indicators then work ok on the new dash. Once the indicators work normally, test the old hazard button connector pins to see what is connected to what, when off and on. The low voltage wire is probably the light for the original button, which you may still need or a resistor depending a what’s in the Skunkwurx one.

Failing that you could always see if the skunwurkx guy is around still by pm. He used to post here previously……..

Good luck!

[Oli1122]

Thanks, i did emailed the user hamtt as well.
In the meantime i checked the standard hazard button. It works normally and the indicators on the Dash2 are working properly.
So I measured and checked different combination.
Here is what i found out about the cables and the black OEM Connector (which as numbers and letters on it).

cable colours / connector number/letter / function

grey-violet / 30 / Always plus from the battery
green-white / R / indicator right
green-black / 49a / Output indicator
green-red / L / indicator left
green-violet (2 cables in 1 slot) / 49 / Input indicator
green-violet (1 cable in 1 slot) / 30b / switched plus (hazard ligh switch)
white-yellow / 15 / switched plus (Ignition)
black /31 / Ground - battery or car earth

Findings and tests:

1. from dash2 double pin to green-red & green-white / single pin to grey-violet = hazard button switched on - all indicators steady lighting - indicator toggle without any function.

2. from dash2 double pin to green-red & green-white / single pin to white-yellow = Same as in 1. but ignition has to be on.

3. from dash2 double pin to green-red & green-white / single pin to green-violet (1 cable) = no function of hazard switch and indicator toggle

4. from dash2 double pin to green-red & green-white / single pin to green-violet (2 cables) = Same as in 3. - no function of hazard switch and indicator toggle

5. from dash2 double pin to green-red & green-white / single pin to green-black = Same as in 3/4 - no function of hazard switch and indicator toggle

I also found a reddit thread with this information, mine has different cable colours but other than that looks very similar to me.
yellow = 2 cables/pins
blue = 1 cable/pins
Also I'm curious about the spare cable/pin bridge

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How are you getting on? If the new switch is the issue, why not see if you can find a part number on it and see if there is a tech doc that you could match up with your old one?

Failing that, you could alway keep the old button in place maybe too! Was the dash previously installed, I’ve heard that the dash2pro is a bit tricky to configure as it has a lot more options than the standard dash2 in the 3.5’s.. but lots more features too that would be nice to have if it’s setup and working etc.

[Oli1122]

No progress in terms of the hazard switch. At the moment i chose the option you wrote.... and just kept the original switch. A friend of mine as done it on several other cars and will help me.

As for now I'm setting up the dash2pro. The software itself is pretty much self-explanatory but very capable on the option side.
Speedo and RPM are working.
As for water temperature i was a bit lazy and ordered the bosch sensor (for 16.- EUR) Race Technology is suggesting and is already preconfigured in their software. Thats a pretty good deal for saving my nerves.

Next one is setting up the fuel gauge... i already emptied the tank and as for now i'm searching for the right cable colour to measure out the voltage while pouring 5L at the time in the tank. At the end, I'm hoping for a better accuracy of the petrol gauge. Especially on track the spa dash is pretty erratic like a mixture of an current consumption display and a fuel gauge.

[Oli1122]

Just a few tipps for others who are attempting to do the upgrade themselves.

Hazard switch wiring is done and it is working as it should.
I got my hands on the wiring diagram of the original hella hazard switch (as Atlarge recommended). So here is the wiring solution for the switch.

The Dash2pro has 3 cables. 2 of the are tied together and one is somewhat single.

- The two cables which are tied to together will go into the ports L & R on the connector. Which way around does not matter. These cables will light up the right and left indicator sides.
- The single cable you have to plug into the 49a (Combined direction + hazard flasher unit) connector.
- Last but not least you need a cable bridge. One side has to go into 49 (Direction flasher switch) and the other one into 30 (Battery)

Ordering the recommended (from Race Technology) Bosch Water Temperature Sensor was the right thing to do.
The Output Readings are very good and close to the measurements from the ECU itself. I rechecked manually the temperatures just to be sure everything is working as it should.

The fuel gauge is setup as well and alarmingly accurate. Just as a tip... pour in 3-5L of fuel and set that amount as empty and measure from that. The OEM manufactures do the same with their vehicles. Full is determined when the fuel pump swimmer arm is fully up. You can see that on your voltage measuring notes because nothing will change from then on. Full (fuel pump swimmer arm fully up) was around 35 Liters on mine. Measuring's were taken on the green cable of the fuel pump connector. There are no big differences in voltage measurements if you go 3-5 Liters at each measurement point.

Next step will be upgrading to more output channels to get my steering wheel shift lights working as well.