Chat:Silver's ecotec atom 2 upgrades

[silver]

so the p0520 code comes back immediately even after I clear the codes....I assume this is NOT one that we should ignore like the p0230 code.

I thought I found where the sensor is but no I can't find it...will someone help me find the sensor so I can get a visual on it, as Darth said it either got disconnected or failed.

[silver]

I found the part number so that's a start

24577642

seems inexpensive so I'll probably just go buy one and put it in...at least GM will probably be albe to tell me where it's located.

[DarthChicken]

I think its over by the oil cooler.. over by the oil filter cap.  Just look for the harness plug that says oil pressure.

[silver]

found it...it is part of the oil cooler at the very bottom, really easy to spot.

Purchased it at napa, $13 bux.

During my lunch I basically got all the rundown on this code so here's the scoop

here's an old email from Joe Wissman


  P0520    Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit

This code is not uncommon to Ariel Atoms. We are working with GM to resolve the source of this code. There are a number of factors that might cause it. However, we do know that if oil pressure falls below 30 psi on Atom engines, the indicator light will, in fact, function correctly.


If you wanted to replace it, it is at the bottom of the oil cooler.
The cooler is connected to the oil filter boss.  You'd loose a lot of oil making the change so plan on a oil change at the same time.

Also from Positron, he's had this code come and go and replacing the switch made no difference to when it comes on or not....

Since I already purchased it, and it's not bad timing to do an oil change, I figure I'll tackle it all at once it looks super simple to replace....plus I'll have my tuner turn that code off so it doesn't pester me.

[s996]

time for the remote filter kit.

[DarthChicken]

What kind of correction factor?  That looks like exactly what you've been looking for to me!  

So hurry up and get that thing on the track... and send that wideband back, Eric wants to get his on the dyno soon!

[Gage]

I would love to see pictures of the new intercooler mounted.  It sounds like a definite improvement to the overall problem.

[silver]

Oh yes for sure. I'm going to install the firewall and mount the intercooler tonight

[silver]

got caught up running errands and working late, it's almost installed, firewall has had the holes drilled out, all the plumbing and connections are purchased. so tomorrow I just need to resize a few hoses and connect it fill it bleed it and we're golden

p.s. got some new rubber on the back...damn the car looks so good with fresh rubber.

p.p.s oh also hit 7000 exactly while on the dyno...feels good to push it past 7000 finally get some miles on it this summer.

[Gage]

So are you mounting the new radiator/heat exchanger behind the fire wall on the opposite side from your seats?  So now you have two heat exchangers for the supercharged air?  If so, wont the fire wall block A LOT of air flow in when everything is put back together?  Did you test it with the firewall in place?  Please forgive me if I'm asking a dumb question or two.  Did you work out a solution for getting the oil filter out?

[silver]

OK new radiator goes behind the seats on the firewall mounted on risers that move it off the firewall one inch.

The radiator gets tons of air rushing through between the seats and no air behind them....but it doesn't need it.

the purpose of having a radiator in the wind so to speak is to cool off the radiator....this radiator isn't getting hot, so whether it was fully in the wind or not at all it would provide the same results.

I decided to keep the factory intercooler in place b/c it's got the fan and both radiators will have a bleed line going back to my surge tank.

I took the car for a drive for 20 minutes, pushing it as hard as I could on the street...which compared to track driving is not hard at all...but I didn't want to go to 

so after the drive I got home and the radiators were barely warm to the touch...meaning there's either enough airflow to cool them off OR they aren't getting hot in the first place, either answer is fine.

I still did see reduction in IAT2's and faster recovery times too so that's why I'm making it a permanent install.


I wish they would have gotten hotter which would leave me with room to improve like adding fans to the radiator, but, since it didn't even get hot there's no point, it probably cooled the IAT2's down and helped recovery time b/c there is now about double the coolant in the system so the system functions more effeciently.

[RyanD]

Do you happen to know how high the ECU allows the IAT2 temperature to go before it automatically pulls timing?

[silver]

I asked my tuner but haven't gotten a response....from what I know the factory pulls at 124 ish....I believe this is adjustable in the tune, although if you are driving on track or auto X, moving the temp to a higher number is only going to cause more heatsoak or damage..which is why Brammo wouldn't make that change during the 300 update.

The real question is, now that I can recover from high temps rather quickly can I program it to only pull timing after X seconds of constant temps over XXX.

[RyanD]

[quote="silver"]
I asked my tuner but haven't gotten a response....from what I know the factory pulls at 124 ish....
[/quote]

Hmm, that sounds very low.  I would think any NA street car could hit that in the summer, much less one with a blower.

[silver]

intercooler install complete!!!! success WOW I'm so friggen happy car is 100% done with the projects

I'm posting pics in the build thread.

the intercooler for anyone who would like to copy me was purchased on ebay, $130 shipped, purchased about $100 in materials to mount and plumb it.