2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
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Re: 2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
Yowsa! That's an insane minimum order. Sorry for giving you a bad link.
Re: 2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
Very interesting read. Great info. Brilliant detail. Thanks for sharing.
Atom 3.5R, Black+Red flashes, CF front & rear wings, CF bonnet & mud guards. Bristol
Re: 2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
I’m having starting problems with my06 Brammo Ecotec. Fob is hung under dash. Immobilizer lights operating properly. No battery cutoff switch. Fresh battery on tender. With ignition switch on I always get fuel pump on, but start button intermittently started doing nothing. Was occasional, now won’t start.
Confirmed continuity of the button, but have been testing by jumping the button wires. Jumping solenoid to power starts right up.
Yesterday, when there was 13v at the button it would start. When it wouldn’t start there was 0v at the button. This morning there was consistently 13v at the button, but wouldn’t start and with the start button wires jumped there was 0 at solenoid. Tonight, now have 0 at start button.
I’d like to test by bypassing the immobilizer. I see the 2-jumper approach above (@frankrizzo), but I would appreciate more explanation…and any other thoughts.
Confirmed continuity of the button, but have been testing by jumping the button wires. Jumping solenoid to power starts right up.
Yesterday, when there was 13v at the button it would start. When it wouldn’t start there was 0v at the button. This morning there was consistently 13v at the button, but wouldn’t start and with the start button wires jumped there was 0 at solenoid. Tonight, now have 0 at start button.
I’d like to test by bypassing the immobilizer. I see the 2-jumper approach above (@frankrizzo), but I would appreciate more explanation…and any other thoughts.
Re: 2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
Sorry, my user name didn’t show up in my post above. I’m signed in and when I hit Submit it says that user is already logged in.
@FrankRizzo you said above “That's the "immobilizer bypass" (hot-wire plug) for your car”. You also referred to jumping the two red/white wires and the two white wires. If I already have an active (but maybe failing) immobilizer, where would I be putting those two jumpers?
Thank you for all of the knowledge you take the time to provide!! It gives me hope.
@FrankRizzo you said above “That's the "immobilizer bypass" (hot-wire plug) for your car”. You also referred to jumping the two red/white wires and the two white wires. If I already have an active (but maybe failing) immobilizer, where would I be putting those two jumpers?
Thank you for all of the knowledge you take the time to provide!! It gives me hope.
Re: 2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
Also, I tried swapping the starter relay for a known good one (low beams). I’ve searched a lot for a wiring schematic, but can’t find one.
Re: 2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
After further research, please accept my apologies. I see that we are not supposed to discuss how to bypass an immobilizer in a public forum. If I can figure out how to edit my posts, I'll delete those references. Maui06. rapacz@hawaii.rr.com.
Re: 2004 A2, is a key with a blade normal?
Final follow up and long story short:
The immobilizer was okay. The starter relay was okay. The starter relay socket had a bad connection in one of the slots for the relay prongs. One of the connectors had come loose inside the fuse block and was deep on the slot. Apparently the intermittent problem that got progressively worse were symptoms of the connector sliding further down in the slot. I discovered this when jumping slot B1 to slot D2 (see photo) and not getting voltage to go through.
I stripped more insulation off the jumper wire and put it deeper into slot B1 and the car started up. I removed the battery, removed the screws from both fuse blocks and fully loosened the screws holding the fuse block assembly to the chassis. This gave me enough wiggle room to get under the fuse block and push the wire/connector back into slot B1. It clicked in, and after reinserting and removing the relay several times, the connector stayed in place in the slot. I reconnected the battery and started the car several times, before screwing the fuse blocks and assembly back.
I now carry some jumper wires in the car.
The immobilizer was okay. The starter relay was okay. The starter relay socket had a bad connection in one of the slots for the relay prongs. One of the connectors had come loose inside the fuse block and was deep on the slot. Apparently the intermittent problem that got progressively worse were symptoms of the connector sliding further down in the slot. I discovered this when jumping slot B1 to slot D2 (see photo) and not getting voltage to go through.
I stripped more insulation off the jumper wire and put it deeper into slot B1 and the car started up. I removed the battery, removed the screws from both fuse blocks and fully loosened the screws holding the fuse block assembly to the chassis. This gave me enough wiggle room to get under the fuse block and push the wire/connector back into slot B1. It clicked in, and after reinserting and removing the relay several times, the connector stayed in place in the slot. I reconnected the battery and started the car several times, before screwing the fuse blocks and assembly back.
I now carry some jumper wires in the car.
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