My car has finally arrived!
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rskdsk
My car has finally arrived!
I finally got my car 2006 atom 2 245hp RAM 286 with 268 miles ... it now has 280 miles. All I can say is WOW, this thing is fast! I do have a question though ... my car is very touchy on take off ... sometimes jerking back and forth if I do not feed the gas clutch right. Also, I notice that when free reving hot, it seems to have a bit of a hestitation ... just a small hesitation ... is this normal?
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silver
Re: My car has finally arrived!
yup.
buy a 2006 cobalt SS supercharged ECU from a junk yard and pay someone to use HP tuners to tune it.
that's what you need to fix the jerkiness.
Brammo tune especially on that early of a model is going to do that.
you should be able to buy one from car-part.com and tuning usually runs about 400, finding a good tuner locally is the hard part.
On another note, something to check, on your air intake is it the accordion dryer hose style or the plastic tube style.
buy a 2006 cobalt SS supercharged ECU from a junk yard and pay someone to use HP tuners to tune it.
that's what you need to fix the jerkiness.
Brammo tune especially on that early of a model is going to do that.
you should be able to buy one from car-part.com and tuning usually runs about 400, finding a good tuner locally is the hard part.
On another note, something to check, on your air intake is it the accordion dryer hose style or the plastic tube style.
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SpatialThreat
Re: My car has finally arrived!
[quote="silver"]
OHHH and Congrats lol
[/quote]
Here Here -- I have 244 miles
Got it yesterday!
It's like having birthdays near each other!
OHHH and Congrats lol
[/quote]
Here Here -- I have 244 miles
Got it yesterday!It's like having birthdays near each other!
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rskdsk
Re: My car has finally arrived!
Yes, it has the dryer hose intake ... I am guessing that is not good.
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silver
Re: My car has finally arrived!
not good for you, potentially good for both of us LOL....
You have a few simple options here,
leave the dryer hose in tact, eventually your shock will rub through it and you'll need to replace it. ALSO, the diameter of the hose is too small to flow enough air (I think) and it's turbulent so tuning for it isn't optimal.
You can upgrade to the roto-molded intake that brammo made you'd have to find a used one ( I have 2 partial used ones that could be formed into 1 full used one that's undamaged)
You can upgrade further to a side air intake which is basically an aluminum tube coming out the side of the supercharger with a foam or k&n filter on the end. Tom S. made these here
http://www.unique-fabricating.com/group.asp?grp=6
although a quick look at his website they are no longer listed?
also the side air intake means your air filter is exposed to water if you live in a wet area probably not advised.
lastly you could do a hybrid of both ideas, you could get the rotomolded air intake, then chop off the flat filter piece and put a cone filter in it's place for more air flow, then if you're going for more power, you can chop it down more and attach a larger diameter housing for the maf which flows more air.
You have a few simple options here,
leave the dryer hose in tact, eventually your shock will rub through it and you'll need to replace it. ALSO, the diameter of the hose is too small to flow enough air (I think) and it's turbulent so tuning for it isn't optimal.
You can upgrade to the roto-molded intake that brammo made you'd have to find a used one ( I have 2 partial used ones that could be formed into 1 full used one that's undamaged)
You can upgrade further to a side air intake which is basically an aluminum tube coming out the side of the supercharger with a foam or k&n filter on the end. Tom S. made these here
http://www.unique-fabricating.com/group.asp?grp=6
although a quick look at his website they are no longer listed?
also the side air intake means your air filter is exposed to water if you live in a wet area probably not advised.
lastly you could do a hybrid of both ideas, you could get the rotomolded air intake, then chop off the flat filter piece and put a cone filter in it's place for more air flow, then if you're going for more power, you can chop it down more and attach a larger diameter housing for the maf which flows more air.
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rskdsk
Re: My car has finally arrived!
Well ... let see if I can even find a tuner here is sunny SW FL ... I am in Cape Coral
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silver
Re: My car has finally arrived!
[quote="rskdsk"]
Well ... let see if I can even find a tuner here is sunny SW FL ... I am in Cape Coral
[/quote]
easiest way to find a tuner is to go on to a cobalt forum (google you will find several) and have them help you find a local tuner for a cobalt.
If you find someone who's good with cobalts, you'll be in good hands.
I would recommend making your decisions on all other modifications prior to tuning b/c anything you change regarding intake / exhaust or whatever else, would potentially nullify any enhancements gained in the tune.
Well ... let see if I can even find a tuner here is sunny SW FL ... I am in Cape Coral
[/quote]
easiest way to find a tuner is to go on to a cobalt forum (google you will find several) and have them help you find a local tuner for a cobalt.
If you find someone who's good with cobalts, you'll be in good hands.
I would recommend making your decisions on all other modifications prior to tuning b/c anything you change regarding intake / exhaust or whatever else, would potentially nullify any enhancements gained in the tune.
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payne
Re: My car has finally arrived!
I'd check www.ls1tech.com for a tuner in your area. It's the same tuning software that they use to tune vettes, and I'd trust someone building 500-1000hp race rigs to tune my Atom more than someone tuning ricers.
PM Nicolas, I believe he has a better intake laying around.
JP
PM Nicolas, I believe he has a better intake laying around.
JP
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dial911
Re: My car has finally arrived!
Vince at Trifecta Performance in Seattle can do a tune on the original ECU without having to swap it out. He also can do long distance tunes by email using a local dyno shop. Somewhat slow process but gets the job done.
If you decide to tune on a different ECU I have an extra one I'd be willing to part with. PM me if interested.
If you decide to tune on a different ECU I have an extra one I'd be willing to part with. PM me if interested.
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rskdsk
Re: My car has finally arrived!
Right now this car is simply to fast! I can not believe I am saying that having owned many different ferraris, vipers, and even a lambo. But I am sure as time goes on I'll find it slower and slower and will opt for the supercharger upgrade.
BTW ... how do you guys stop driving this thing? For me it is like an addiction that just gets stronger and stronger. I have already put 70 miles on the car in just 2 days. Is there an AAAA (ariel atom addition anonymous) that I should be joining?
BTW ... how do you guys stop driving this thing? For me it is like an addiction that just gets stronger and stronger. I have already put 70 miles on the car in just 2 days. Is there an AAAA (ariel atom addition anonymous) that I should be joining?
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NormLarson
Re: My car has finally arrived!
On the Cobalt forums there is a Florida tuner named "Terminator 2"
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NormLarson
Re: My car has finally arrived!
Forgot about this thread http://forum.atomclub.com/https://atomc ... cseen The listed Florida tuner is Terminator 2 ...
Last edited by NormLarson on Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Terry Kennedy
Re: My car has finally arrived!
[quote="rskdsk"]
Yes, it has the dryer hose intake ... I am guessing that is not good.
[/quote]
It does indicate that you may be missing additional retrofits, some of which address critical safety issues. Off the top of my head:
1) Rod ends - the early cars were built with SPM/SPB rod ends which are dangerously overloaded on an Atom (the rod end manufacturer says they're used on lawn mowers). The bad ones are a yellow/gold color with a mottled surface and a somewhat obvious "waistband" where they were molded. The standard grade rod ends (minimum needed from a safety point of view) are AM/AB which are a silver color. One step up is PRM/PRB which are also yellow/gold, but have a very smooth matte surface with no obvious dimples or mold marks. I had a SPB rod end fail on the highway, and if it had been on the front it probably would have been fatal. SPM/SPB rod ends are also a possible cause of another Atom being totalled.
2) Coolant lines - underneath the car there are 4 coolant lines that run from the back to the front. They are held in an aluminum clamp just to the front of the engine. There was a retrofit to install a rubber pad to keep them from being damaged and wearing through.
3) Passenger rear brake line - there was a retrofit to install an additional clamp to hold the brake line away from the engine - without this, there is a chance that the serpentine belt can cut through the brake line.
4) Fuel lines - on the left side of the engine, there was a retrofit to install mesh sleeving over the red fuel lines. I believe this was to prevent wear on the fuel lines.
5) Intercooler fan direction flow - some cars were built with the intercooler fan blowing down onto the ground rather than pulling air up from the ground.
Other things which were never officially issued as retrofits from Brammo:
6) Exhaust flex joint(s) (and exhaust system in general) - the flex joint(s) in the exhaust line (older cars have 1, newer have 2) blow out, causing damage to the frame and wiring. Many owners have had the stuffing blow out of the muffler. A few have had the "rams horn" header welds crack. In general, the solution is a complete new exhaust system, header to tailpipe. Some owners have fixed each item as it fails.
7) Intercooler pump - some cars were built with the intercooler pump running the wrong way, leading to reduced (hah!) intercooler efficiency.
Wheel hubs/bearings - some owners have had wheel hub and/or bearing failures. This generally comes from track use, wider tires, or both.
9) Tune - the Brammo "300HP" tune (the final one, not the one you have) produces about 228 WHP / 240 engine HP. The solution is to replace the ECU with one from a 2005/6 Cobalt SS and have a tuner work on it (the stock Brammo ECU isn't recognized by most tuning software - it isn't "locked" as some say, it's just that the tuning software doesn't recognize the calibration number in the ECU as it was from GM Racing).
10) Brake / tail / running / directional signal lights - there are lots of failure modes here - bulbs pop out of the sockets, the sockets crack and/or melt, and so on.
All of the above except #10 are unique to Brammo cars and don't affect cars built by TMI or Ariel UK.
Some parts may be available from TMI, as they took over support and spare parts for Brammo Atoms. Many of the parts are NLA, though (No Longer Available) and you'll need to buy used ones from another member here or make do with some other part.
There are four non-factory sources (that I know of) for Atom upgrades:
1) http://www.unique-fabricating.com - run by Tom and Judy Smurzynski - great people. Tom used to work for Brammo (but don't hold that against him). In addition to off-the-shelf upgrades, they do custom fabricatiing.
2) http://www.palatov.com - offered a number of Atom upgrades. I believe he sold all his Atom inventory and the items are now made-to-order for each customer.
3) http://sector111.com - an official TMI Atom 3 dealer. Offers exhaust upgrades and possibly other things for Brammo Atoms.
4) http://www.eddiehillsfuncycles.com/ - an official TMI Atom 3 dealer. Offers exhaust components and supercharger upgrades for Brammo Atoms.
We used to have a member here who posted all of the Brammo retrofit documents and lots of other useful stuff, but he left and went to a different forum.
Yes, it has the dryer hose intake ... I am guessing that is not good.
[/quote]
It does indicate that you may be missing additional retrofits, some of which address critical safety issues. Off the top of my head:
1) Rod ends - the early cars were built with SPM/SPB rod ends which are dangerously overloaded on an Atom (the rod end manufacturer says they're used on lawn mowers). The bad ones are a yellow/gold color with a mottled surface and a somewhat obvious "waistband" where they were molded. The standard grade rod ends (minimum needed from a safety point of view) are AM/AB which are a silver color. One step up is PRM/PRB which are also yellow/gold, but have a very smooth matte surface with no obvious dimples or mold marks. I had a SPB rod end fail on the highway, and if it had been on the front it probably would have been fatal. SPM/SPB rod ends are also a possible cause of another Atom being totalled.
2) Coolant lines - underneath the car there are 4 coolant lines that run from the back to the front. They are held in an aluminum clamp just to the front of the engine. There was a retrofit to install a rubber pad to keep them from being damaged and wearing through.
3) Passenger rear brake line - there was a retrofit to install an additional clamp to hold the brake line away from the engine - without this, there is a chance that the serpentine belt can cut through the brake line.
4) Fuel lines - on the left side of the engine, there was a retrofit to install mesh sleeving over the red fuel lines. I believe this was to prevent wear on the fuel lines.
5) Intercooler fan direction flow - some cars were built with the intercooler fan blowing down onto the ground rather than pulling air up from the ground.
Other things which were never officially issued as retrofits from Brammo:
6) Exhaust flex joint(s) (and exhaust system in general) - the flex joint(s) in the exhaust line (older cars have 1, newer have 2) blow out, causing damage to the frame and wiring. Many owners have had the stuffing blow out of the muffler. A few have had the "rams horn" header welds crack. In general, the solution is a complete new exhaust system, header to tailpipe. Some owners have fixed each item as it fails.
7) Intercooler pump - some cars were built with the intercooler pump running the wrong way, leading to reduced (hah!) intercooler efficiency.
Wheel hubs/bearings - some owners have had wheel hub and/or bearing failures. This generally comes from track use, wider tires, or both.9) Tune - the Brammo "300HP" tune (the final one, not the one you have) produces about 228 WHP / 240 engine HP. The solution is to replace the ECU with one from a 2005/6 Cobalt SS and have a tuner work on it (the stock Brammo ECU isn't recognized by most tuning software - it isn't "locked" as some say, it's just that the tuning software doesn't recognize the calibration number in the ECU as it was from GM Racing).
10) Brake / tail / running / directional signal lights - there are lots of failure modes here - bulbs pop out of the sockets, the sockets crack and/or melt, and so on.
All of the above except #10 are unique to Brammo cars and don't affect cars built by TMI or Ariel UK.
Some parts may be available from TMI, as they took over support and spare parts for Brammo Atoms. Many of the parts are NLA, though (No Longer Available) and you'll need to buy used ones from another member here or make do with some other part.
There are four non-factory sources (that I know of) for Atom upgrades:
1) http://www.unique-fabricating.com - run by Tom and Judy Smurzynski - great people. Tom used to work for Brammo (but don't hold that against him). In addition to off-the-shelf upgrades, they do custom fabricatiing.
2) http://www.palatov.com - offered a number of Atom upgrades. I believe he sold all his Atom inventory and the items are now made-to-order for each customer.
3) http://sector111.com - an official TMI Atom 3 dealer. Offers exhaust upgrades and possibly other things for Brammo Atoms.
4) http://www.eddiehillsfuncycles.com/ - an official TMI Atom 3 dealer. Offers exhaust components and supercharger upgrades for Brammo Atoms.
We used to have a member here who posted all of the Brammo retrofit documents and lots of other useful stuff, but he left and went to a different forum.
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