AA3 - Bias adjust factory cable position?

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Hello!

I've recently purchased an AA3 from Ariel and want to fix up (few chips etc) / paint the front black sections at the side of the fuse box and surrounding the bonnet. I noticed that my brake bias cable goes through the 'boot' and wondered if that was normal + if anyone has any tips about removing it so I can get panel parts away from the chassis ?

I've also read a few threads complaining about the air inlet 180' hose (thing?!) I've found a few fairly cheap aluminium 3'' tubes as potential replacements, is there any point trying to replace it or is it generally better to leave well alone?

Appreciate any tips or advice

Cheers!

[John Scherrer]

There should be no reason or need to route the brake bias cable throughu the 'boot'.

I can only assume this was a DIY install and they attached it to the wrong/other end of the brake bias bar?

Some DIY ers have done this on LHD cars as otherwise the clutch gets in the way ..

If you check this thread link, the last post discusses the 'cable through the boot' and suggests using a 90 degree coupler to get around this.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=16225&p=277793&hil ... ot#p277793

I don't recall any issues with the air inlet hose on UK cars but there was a lot written about the early Brammo US cars ..

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Aha - thanks for the info. John

My Atom 3 has the uni chassis (currently LHD) so that makes sense in terms of the routing. I bought it from Ariel direct so I'd expect it's a factory fit but didn't realise the LHD setup made it more difficult due to the clutch pedal setup. I may look into the 90 degree coupler, if I can source one, though I'm more interested in tidying up the panels at the moment before it can go back out on the road. (need something to take my mind off not being able to drive it at all in the winter!!)....

It turns out I've been reading a lot of the Brammo / US forums whilst waiting on joining here, I'll be leaving the intake well alone....

Cheers!

[Quintonan]

I'm guessing one could do a lot of damage attempting to DIY this, right?

[phil4]

I'm guessing one could do a lot of damage attempting to DIY this, right?

The brake bias cable isn't actually involved in the braking itself. You could cut it off, and braking wouldn't change. As such danger is rather limited.

Yes, you can use to wind too much bias front or rear, but that should be obvious, and can be done even without the bias adjuster (just not while in motion).

So while I would normally shy away from touching brakes, for the reason you say... in this instance the danger is rather more limited.

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Quick follow up...

I managed to disconnect the cable from the adjustment bar fairly easily in the end. The hardest part is the removal of the remote cable connection due to the close proximity of everything near the pedal box and surrounding area - nothing a budding contortionist should be scared of, but definitely not for the faint hearted.

I've also ordered a 90' Tilton adapter that John highlighted so that I don't have to go through the rigmarole again, which should make removal of the front faring pretty straightforward if needed again in future.

I'd also agree with phil4 - the only thing to take care of is the positioning of the adjuster bar on reassembly (I used a dab of permanent marker for witness marks) and then testing out the bias adjustment safely.

Cheers!

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Final update....

I fitted the Tilton 90’ adapter today, very straight forward as per the other thread. Fits very snugly just to the outside of the front boot. Now all I need to do is fill in the holes!

Cheers!