Oversteers way to much...

[smokin]

and the shocks/coilovers are definitely different lengths on the front. I just assumed this was normal to compensate for the driver ?

I'd check your front left/right ride heights. Preload both springs the same amount and then use the pushrods to fine tune the ride height

p.s. Set rear ride heights with rear spring perches. Make ALL corner weight adjustments with rear pushrods.

[Nick C]

Hi Smokin...
Thank you for the reply.

Ok, so after some further checks and measurements... the shocks are equal length. Turns out the ramp we had it on was not level at the front...

Checked everything and all seems ok.

Sooo, it appears it's a combination of tyres pressures being a bit too high, tyres well past their best (old) and possibly too many heat cycles and me! My right foot being to heavy and too aggressive driving style for the car.

I am used to heavier front engine cars... and trail braking. Which is hard to do on the Atom without upsetting the balance.., and too greedy with the throttle on the exit...

New tyres and more practice required.

[Peter255]

Not checked the videos but if the car has not been checked over by the factory i would suggest doing so.

It may be something is off with the geo, or suspension setup. These cars are susceptible to bad setup and other users have reported their cars transformed after the factory correcting setup issues.

Assuming the car is setup ok then tyres make a big difference but pressures are somewhat a personal choice. Just make sure they are up to temp.

I would say at certain rpm out of corners the boost can be savage. It is NOT a case of nail it from the apex! This is over 500bhp/tonne! On my older 2 I find the throttle mapping so savage it is hard to be progressive at high rpm in lower gears and using a higher gear than you would think can enable a smoother more controlled exit.

You also do need to be careful on the brakes as well around down-changes as you can easily un-settle the car without good heal and toe action.

In summary speak to the factory, and if possible get a bit of tuition form someone who knows the car. Sideways Si ideally.

Have fun.

[Fastlane]

Sooo, it appears it's a combination of tyres pressures being a bit too high, tyres well past their best (old) and possibly too many heat cycles and me!

New tyres and more practice required.

Steve at the factory said that Atoms are very sensitive to "old" tyres (probably because they are so light compared to normal cars?) so I agree that this is most likely your problem. The factory fitted Kumho Ecsta V70As to mine in the Summer - £600 all in - and I am very happy with them.

[Nick C]

spoke to the Factory (Steve) very, very helpful...
turns out my car has been set up by them prior to me collecting it. also had a major service, complete spanner check and full alignment. hence the white paint marks on the push rods etc.

he did say old tyres or too many heat cycles, really effects the handling/grip levels.

he suggested new boots, and for me to lay around with the coilover setting to get a better balance.. avoid trail braking or unsettling the car.

all makes sense now.

[wasp]

spoke to the Factory (Steve) very, very helpful...
turns out my car has been set up by them prior to me collecting it. also had a major service, complete spanner check and full alignment. hence the white paint marks on the push rods etc.

he did say old tyres or too many heat cycles, really effects the handling/grip levels.

he suggested new boots, and for me to lay around with the coilover setting to get a better balance.. avoid trail braking or unsettling the car.

all makes sense now.

To be honest, if Steve and his motley crew has been anywhere near it then the car will be in great shape. Get the Khumo's if you can, there were completely transforming on my car. It's good to know that the car is in great shape, now you can push hard in the knowledge that it is safe!

Hope you find a balance that suits you well.

Cheers,
Stu

[Nick C]

thanks Stu...

just ordered a rear set of kumhos to see how I get on. and a spare set of wheels now.
also just ordered some R888R`s - so will be interesting to see the difference.


question for anyone that might know - what kind of "G" should I expect to see (hope to achieve) in corners ?

my GTR easily pulls over 1G, and I have seen at least 1.3G on some corners.. I was hoping the Atom could get near it.

[Alex Brandon-Smith]

Great to see your getting it sorted Stu, the factory guys are always helpful. Rookie is superb and you should see the way he drives!

Trail braking is quite an issue in the atom. I used to do it a lot but after a number of years and training I drive it very much like a go kart - HARD on the brakes in a straight line, change gear, turn in just as you release the brake, and then balanced gas into and through the corner, a bit more gas if getting understeer, then as the wheel is nearly unwound, give it beans. It's a very delicate car in terms of balance. You'll get used to it and then you'll realise just how hard you can brake with it!

Enjoy!

[Sir Nick]

You have a brake pedal in your car [mention]Alex Brandon-Smith[/mention] ??

[Alex Brandon-Smith]

You have a brake pedal in your car @Alex Brandon-Smith ??

I do have one yes, but it's mainly used to avoid driving into the back of slow driving old blokes in atoms...

[HenryJS]

Set rear ride heights with rear spring perches.

Please dont!

The springs all need to be set to the same preload. If you chage the 'platform height' of the springs - the dampers will not react equally on both sides.

If you need some measurements to check your dampers are set up correctly - let us know at the factory!

Set the ride height with the pushrods and then make fine adjustments to corner-weight the car.

Edit:

NickC, do you have remote brake bais adjuster?

[smokin]

Hi Henry,

Your correction suggests our Eibach springs are progressive - can you confirm?

Thanks

[HenryJS]

Yes - the standard springs are progressive.

The split springs are also progressive, as they have two rates, one soft spring, one hard spring.
Of course one spring on its own is linear... but the more you compress it, the more force you require...

A simple example for a 100lb spring:

Apply 100lbs of force - it will compress 1"
apply 200lbs of force - it will compress 2"
etc

so if you compress the spring further - it is exerting more force back against you. Equal and opposite reactions and all that.
Its much more complicated with split rate, or progressive rate springs.

Also: If you compress the spring using the lockrings, you need to increase rebound damping on its own, which only some Atom dampers have the capacity for. Which is fine, but without this ability i suggest that you do not adjust the 'spring platforms'. Adjusting these is to adjust rebound and how stiff the car will ride...

If you want a firmer ride and more support in the corners, but you want to keep that initial 'plushness' we suggest changing your main spring all together (if you have split rate springs)

you can change it in the following manner:

Rear standard Main spring to Front damper.
Heavier 70-80 rate rear main spring.

70-80 Front main spring
90-100 Rear main spring

All of these changes are compatible with a 002 assister spring (very very very soft - so soft you can compress it with one hand!) and this purely retains the main spring in between the 'perches' but you also experience the full travel of the damper, still giving the correct ride height.




To test this out easily (if you have a full suspension mountain bike with a 'coil over oil' rear shock) measure your standard spring position, then wind 4 extra turns of 'preload' which will reduce the 'sag' in the damper. Don't change any of the compression of rebound settings and see how bouncy it is! virtually un-rideable as it will buck you over the handlebars at a moments notice...

[smokin]

Brilliant, thanks very much Henry

[HenryJS]