Ariel.Club Forum

Be interesting to see how much he can do an exaust for
Keep us informed
Thanks

If you have an Atom 3 or 3.5 you need a sump for the K20Z4 engine, unless you go for the balancer shaft delete kit but that will mean the engine has to come out.

The Clockwise motion one has good reviews but does not fit the standard K20Z4. Look for a sump that is designed for the FN3 Civic. I got mine from www.uk.spoonsports.eu who have a sale on at the moment. Toda also do one but the baffle design is more open but does have an extra service hole for use with an oil temp sensor. I went with the Spoon version and had a oil sensor bung welded in.

I've not had any issues with oil starvation but do run 5mm over max on the dipstick as well.

i could be interested in a nice stright through zorst if someone is making them

After hearing Sven's sports exhaust I decided I needed one in my life

I have reached out to Jim at 2ublar (Google his website) who made me a custom exhaust for lotus 2-1. It was a work of art. The exhausts are repackable and baffle can be altered as well

I will update once I have poession and it will cost significantly less than the factory option

Thanks for the description there Stu! I've seen a couple of options available. This looks quite trick and presumably would fit;

http://areamotorsport.co.uk/area-shop/clockwise-motion-sump-baffle/

Not to sure I like the look of all those bolts though, just the thought of them working loose somehow....

You mention yours is made from 'spoon'. Any good?

Best advice is to take your time.

Start by moving all the handbrake cables from underneath the sump and any wiring connectors that may be stressed. I then undid the sump bolts and removed most of them leaving a few hand tight; obviously you need to drain the oil first. You don't need to remove any driveshafts or coolant hoses but keep an eye on them.

You need to lift the RH side of the engine up as high as possible whilst at the same time moving it as far left as possible; the gearbox basically needs to sit up against the frame to the left and sit on the frame under it; protect the frame all round.

I used an engine crane plus a jack under the gearbox having obviously undone all the engine/gearbox mounts first.

The reason the RHS has to be higher is because the sump overlaps the lower frame and also has to clear the timing chain before it can be removed. I found that re-fitting my baffled sump was more difficult because of those baffles so engine had to be raised slightly higher; removing the standard sum was easier.

Once you have it so the sump it will slot in place, re-clean the mating surfaces and then apply the Honda gasket sealant; I found it easier to do to a test fit first rather than struggle and get sealant everywhere.

Hope this helps. I really should have taken some pictures!

Watching with interest! Got to be a more cost effective way...

Stu is that an offer to help ! 

Great meeting up with the Surrey guys yesterday

1. What engine does it ?
2. Is it kit car ?
3. What's the fuel economy ?

Does it ever end...

Anyone seen this company, seems cheap and well regarded by the Vtec community

http://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-bolt-in-k-series-oil-pan-baffle

£1.5k to retro fit a baffled sump! Glad I fitted a Spoon one and a timing chain baffle myself in about a half a day. You don't need to take the engine out but you do have to lift it up a bit.

even with a baffold sump you still want the oil levels to be at the max mark, ive had 3 cars with the honda k20 and every independent garage they have been to have always overfilled with oil before taking it on track.

They should fit these as standard.  Sooo much easier at build.

I'm lazy as well so taking out the insurance of having a sump now pays for itself with no need for  rebuild or engine

Sump is 1.5k installed

The thing about oil starvation is it only needs to happen once on a fast sweeping bend and that's your big end bearings gone and a wrecked  engine. I guess it depends how lucky you feel as to whether you "need" a baffled sump,  but there is only one "safe" answer,  and the cost of a baffled sump is always going to be cheaper than a new engine 

For what it's worth,  I run my oil level at about 5mm over the max mark as per factory recommendation (that's how they ran the Atom Cup cars)  and I have a baffled sump.

[quote="Ej74"]
Its was in 3rd gear !!

So what is consensus regarding a baffled sump - to sump or not to sump ?
So with the oil filled there is no risk of oil starvation ?

I'll be running Yoko's, 888's or Kumho's
[/quote]
I looked at a car without a baffled sump and spoke to the factory about it. They said road use it's ok without but track use whilst it should be ok if you top the oil up I felt it was a sensible insurance policy to fit one if you are using it on track. At the end of the day why have that nagging doubt? Cost wise what everyone else has said, £1000 roughly, also the clutch can be checked etc, etc.