silver wrote:
ok so supposed to go to cars and coffee tomorrow so I checked the car out..battery is dead..what a surprise..ok no problem put it on the charger wait a few hours, come back....bingo it starts.
Then...test lights...hit rain light...blow fuse...ok been here before the wiring probably got shaved down a little in the back....replace fuse, but then...
Regarding the battery, you get one free pass running it flat. After the second time, it won't hold a charge. I suggest a battery tender (and, most lilkely, a new battery).
For the rain light, all that stuff goes through a hole in the chassis behind the license plate frame (it is behind the license plate light, which is also what holds that sub-panel to the frame. In particular, if you have the HyTech / Sector111 exhaust, heat from the exhaust can damage that wiring.
Here's my question, as it was running I switched the lights back on and off, and I saw a spark come from the fuel pump fused relay....then car remains running and I go to put the fuse box cover back on, obviously being a tight fit it taps the relay, car shuts off AND WON'T START AGAIN.
what the hell is up with these relays.
how come I can take the fused relays out of the low and high beams yet my headlights still work.
The cover shouldn't hit the tops of the relays.
Are you sure you're looking at the correct relays? The low beam is the next-to-the-left relay in the passenger-side box, high beam is one to the right.
how come I can't get my car to start now....and why is my battery draining SOOOO Fast.
could the relay be stuck open and thus draining my battery? do I need to buy all new relays in the morning?
The relays are Form C (SPDT), so technically there is no "open" side. In a quiet garage, you should be able to hear the low-beam relay open and close (just put the low beams on, pull the right relay, and cycle the others through that position - they're all identical and you should hear a click when you put it in the socket).
I expect you just have a bad battery from running it down more than once. You can hook up an ammeter to the battery to see what the key-off current draw is - it won't be zero because both the immobilizer and PCM are still powered. As a guess, I'd say 50-80 mA.