Ariel.Club Forum

Final follow up and long story short:
The immobilizer was okay. The starter relay was okay. The starter relay socket had a bad connection in one of the slots for the relay prongs. One of the connectors had come loose inside the fuse block and was deep on the slot. Apparently the intermittent problem that got progressively worse were symptoms of the connector sliding further down in the slot. I discovered this when jumping slot B1 to slot D2 (see photo) and not getting voltage to go through.

I stripped more insulation off the jumper wire and put it deeper into slot B1 and the car started up. I removed the battery, removed the screws from both fuse blocks and fully loosened the screws holding the fuse block assembly to the chassis. This gave me enough wiggle room to get under the fuse block and push the wire/connector back into slot B1. It clicked in, and after reinserting and removing the relay several times, the connector stayed in place in the slot. I reconnected the battery and started the car several times, before screwing the fuse blocks and assembly back.

I now carry some jumper wires in the car.

After further research, please accept my apologies. I see that we are not supposed to discuss how to bypass an immobilizer in a public forum. If I can figure out how to edit my posts, I'll delete those references. Maui06. rapacz@hawaii.rr.com.

Also, I tried swapping the starter relay for a known good one (low beams). I’ve searched a lot for a wiring schematic, but can’t find one.

Sorry, my user name didn’t show up in my post above. I’m signed in and when I hit Submit it says that user is already logged in.
@FrankRizzo you said above “That's the "immobilizer bypass" (hot-wire plug) for your car”. You also referred to jumping the two red/white wires and the two white wires. If I already have an active (but maybe failing) immobilizer, where would I be putting those two jumpers?
Thank you for all of the knowledge you take the time to provide!! It gives me hope.

I’m having starting problems with my06 Brammo Ecotec. Fob is hung under dash. Immobilizer lights operating properly. No battery cutoff switch. Fresh battery on tender. With ignition switch on I always get fuel pump on, but start button intermittently started doing nothing. Was occasional, now won’t start.
Confirmed continuity of the button, but have been testing by jumping the button wires. Jumping solenoid to power starts right up.
Yesterday, when there was 13v at the button it would start. When it wouldn’t start there was 0v at the button. This morning there was consistently 13v at the button, but wouldn’t start and with the start button wires jumped there was 0 at solenoid. Tonight, now have 0 at start button.

I’d like to test by bypassing the immobilizer. I see the 2-jumper approach above (@frankrizzo), but I would appreciate more explanation…and any other thoughts.

Very interesting read. Great info. Brilliant detail. Thanks for sharing.

Yowsa! That's an insane minimum order. Sorry for giving you a bad link.

Hey @FrankRizzo,
I am sorry for not updating. Unfortunately I had two canceled/delayed orders for the Delphi Metri Pack 150 connectors. As I don't want to wait any longer I've placed an order for fakes from AliExpress, they are one third or forth of the price. They are currently awaiting a customs check but are already in germany. My experience tells me that they should arrive by the end of this week.
The only thing available fast seems to be a set with several connectors but I don't really feel like spending 400€ / 340GBP/ 420US so solve a problem that isn't really there.
Ben

Update: I've just rechecked with rs-online.com (mega reliable and fast) again and they seem to have everything in stock, this wasn't the case when I've checked with them two weeks ago. I might place a extra order if mine don't clear customs by tomorrow.

Update #2: Now I remember, they had everything in stock but there minimal order quantity for the terminals is 5 000 units, for the end-caps/cable-sorter it's 10 units and for the seals it's 100 units.

Ben wrote: ↑Fri Aug 25, 2023 2:35 pm @FrankRizzo you are a lifesafer! How come you know so much about it?

OK, so enough of my ranting. Did you get it fixed?

It's story time!

I found an old ad for an Atom for sale. I contacted the guy to see if it had sold. He said he had NOT sold it, as he had lost both key fobs, and couldn't start it, and he didn't want to sell it like that. For the next 10 weeks, I did ALL the research. ALL the pins on the CAR side. All the pins on the IMMOBILIZER side, I googled, I e-mailed people, I gathered ALL the info that I could find to help him. He ordered a unit like you did, from eBay, got it in. I told him what wires went where, what connectors he needed (with links), etc. And then radio silence. I check back 2 weeks later (as I figure he's been busy), and he calmly tells me that he got tired of messing with it, so he sold it as-is. To someone else. Despite the fact that I had told him from day 1 that I wanted it. I told him that I had gotten shipping quotes on it in it's non-running state, and that I had gotten quotes for it in a RUNNING state.

I still have all those messages, so I still had all the data that I supplied to you. I hope it helps! If you have a multimeter, you can "tone out" the pins in the "hotwire plug" to make sure you're connecting things right. Here's the only sentence from the info that I supplied to him, that I haven't supplied to you:

"So, to bypass the unit altogether, you would use 2 small jumper wires, and jump the "white with red stripe's" together, and the whites together.  THEN, it should start."

In your case, you could check those pins with the meter, and verify that it's correct.

-a STILL bitter FrankRizzo.

@FrankRizzo you are a lifesafer! How come you know so much about it?
I was sure that I would need to invest hours and hours figuring this out myself, was actually looking through my schedule when I would fit this in.
How can I buy you a beer, or two?

The immobiliser unit arrived yesterday, or the day before. Zero wiring diagram, zero handbook.
Great, then the unit also comes only nine wires and not ten.




Also more detailed photos of the wiring harness in an album on imgur, don't want to make everyone load 10MB+ https://imgur.com/a/GouY723

I am still waiting for the Delphi Metri-Pack connectors to arrive.

Thank you man!
Ben

Edit: I've mixed up the numbering scheme but @FrankRizzo stated that my picture shows the bottom of the connector.

The color code / connector pinout on the immobilizer is:

blue - pin "E"
blue - pin "F"
white - pin "G"
white - pin "H"

For completeness, here's the rest (don't mess with them)

orange - pin "A"
green - pin "B"
green - pin "C"
red - pin "D"
unlabeled - pin "J"
unlabeled - pin "K"

I am pretty sure that B and C are chassis ground and that A and D are power, one being on
all the time and the other only being on when the ignition switch is on, but I don't know
offhand which is which.


In the US, TMI has changed the colors of the green wires, and the blue wires, and this is the pinout here.

Orange is still orange
Green is now black (which would be chassis grounds)
Red is still red
Blue is now "white with a red stripe" (which is the starter enable wire)
White is still white (which is the fuel pump enable wire)

In your picture above, I can see the BOTTOM of the connector. If you'd like to flip it over so that I can see the wire colors on the OTHER side, we can make sure we have everything worked out. (Or if the above details is enough for you, happy wiring!)

That's the "immobilizer bypass" (hot-wire plug) for your car. When you receive your immobilizer, you'll remove the plug, and plug the immobilizer in, in its place. (You'll also have to run the loop up under the dash, and connect it somehow. On my AA2 it was zip-tied to some other wires).

FrankRizzo wrote: ↑Tue Aug 22, 2023 5:43 am Ben, this is what's used on the US AA2:

https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/10 ... black.html

@FrankRizzo thank you! This is pretty useful information, I've always wondered what this contraption does.

I've just ordered two sets of these connectors, I have some with four and two connectors bur or wit ten.

Ben, this is what's used on the US AA2:

https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/10 ... black.html