Ariel.Club Forum

Had this problem before. For the stock brakes, THIS is the correct part: Goodridge BL775-03CH. BUT! You'll have to trim it down a little. (Brammo did that as well). When you pull the old one, and compare it to the new one, you can see the difference in the shape/texture of the end of the bolt. Anyway, just count the threads, and trim accordingly.

What is the size of the banjo brake light switch? 10x1.00 does not fit.

I've ordered a waterproof motorcycle brake switch (from some random version of a Kawasaki Ninja). I'll share the result once I've installed it.

I got my new pressure switch in and that fixed the problem for now.  Took all of 5 min.  Should look at replacing it altogether though.

I changed my switch arrangement as my car was only a few months old when the first switch failed.  I got a replacement from TMI, but that failed very quickly.  Atom Girl apparently had the same problem with hers when her car was but a few months old.  I did not want to be changing switches every couple months, so I went to a different setup.  No problems since.

[quote="Cptnrob"]
How much was the replacement switch out of curiousity?
[/quote]
The switch was $16 plus a few bucks for shipping

[quote="993rs"]
Do the Ecotec/Brammo cars use the Tilton master cylinders?[/quote]

Brammo used Tilton and Wilwood interchangably. I think Tom said that they both came from the same factory anyway.

[quote]I could not easily locate the banjo bolt pieces to rig this new type of switch into the existing brake line connections, so I just removed the bleed screw at the top rear of the master cylinder, and put the new switch in there.  The threads on the Tilton master cylinder are AN threads, so you just need a simple adapter that goes from a male AN to female threads compatible with the switch.  These adapters are also readily available.  I left the old switch in place as it has the required bolt for the banjo fitting on the brake line.  Connect the wires to the new switch, and you are done.[/quote]

Careful - at least some of the failures reported here have been with the sensor blowing out of its housing, leading to a complete loss of braking (and lots of slippery fluid on the floor). I'd suggest replacing the old sensor with the appropriate banjo bolt during a scheduled maintenance. Since the bolt is the same for the other (switch-less) master cylinders, TMI should be able to sell you one if you can't source it locally. 

[quote="capblaster"]
I got a replacement switch from TMI. If I remove to old pressure switch, is brake fluid going to pour out of the cylinder? Can I just pull the old one out and screw in the new one without any fliud leaking?[/quote]

At the least, you're going to get some drips. Have a catch bucket underneath and some compatible fluid to top up with after.

How much was the replacement switch out of curiousity?

I got a replacement switch from TMI. If I remove to old pressure switch, is brake fluid going to pour out of the cylinder? Can I just pull the old one out and screw in the new one without any fliud leaking?
Thanks

Do the Ecotec/Brammo cars use the Tilton master cylinders?  My Atom 3 does, and after two of the standard hydraulic brake switches failed (each requiring very high pedal pressure to activate the switch), I installed a commonly available (at performance car parts shops) hydraulic switch.  End of problem.

I could not easily locate the banjo bolt pieces to rig this new type of switch into the existing brake line connections, so I just removed the bleed screw at the top rear of the master cylinder, and put the new switch in there.  The threads on the Tilton master cylinder are AN threads, so you just need a simple adapter that goes from a male AN to female threads compatible with the switch.  These adapters are also readily available.  I left the old switch in place as it has the required bolt for the banjo fitting on the brake line.  Connect the wires to the new switch, and you are done. 

Once armed with the required parts, this installation took about 5 minutes.  So little air got into the system that I did not even need to bleed the brakes.  I did not take a photo of this.  If anybody wants photos, let me know and I will take a few.

Mine don't work either.

[quote="Arvid"]
I've also had issues with the pressure switch. It sometime stops working and when it do work it requires quite a bit of pressure before activating.

I'm considering installing a mecanical microswitch in parallel with the existing switch. has anyone already done so?

[/quote]

Several people have switched to a mechanical switch, me included.  [url=http://forum.atomclub.com/https://atomclub.com/phpbbnew/viewtopic.php?t=5]Thread[/url] here, my info and pics are on page 4.

I've also had issues with the pressure switch. It sometime stops working and when it do work it requires quite a bit of pressure before activating.

I'm considering installing a mecanical microswitch in parallel with the existing switch. has anyone already done so?

[quote="capblaster"]
[quote="Karl"]
It should be a pressure switch glued into the banjo bolt that goes into the front master cylinder.
[/quote]

Thanks for the info. If anyone could post a picture of what the pressure switch looks like, it would be greatly appreciated.
[/quote]

[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41JdqcuUkTL._SS500_.jpg[/img]

[quote="Karl"]
It should be a pressure switch glued into the banjo bolt that goes into the front master cylinder.
[/quote]

Thanks for the info. If anyone could post a picture of what the pressure switch looks like, it would be greatly appreciated.